The quest for petroglyphs (part 1)

I’ve long held the view, based on absolutely no facts nor evidence whatsoever, that Dominica must have more than just the one tiny little petroglyph that was discovered near the Resposoir Estate on the island’s north coast.

Must have, right ?

If you haven’t the foggiest idea what I’m talking about, sorry. This is an example of an Amerindian petroglyph (Mt Rich in Grenada).

Mt Rich petroglyphs in Grenada

No-one really understands the meaning of these rock carvings, nor what they represent, but most have been found on large boulders near water, usually rivers and river mouths close to the places these people would have had their settlements.

So today was the first day of what I expect to be a very long, drawn-out and potentially fruitless quest to discover something similar here on the nature island. My wife and I headed up to the L’Autre Bord River in the north east corner of Dominica, between Vielle Case and Pennville, where Amerindians are known to have been.

The first time I first came across this pretty babbling brook a couple of years ago when hiking and researching the new National Trail, I was absolutely convinced I’d discover something on one of the huge rocks and boulders between a little area of pasture land and the sea. So today I was very excited to be back here again with more time on my hands and an enthusiastic wife to help me search.

Here’s what the L’Autre Bord River valley looks like from above.

L'Autre Bord River valley

Here’s what it looks like at the bottom.

L'Autre Bord River

And here’s what it looks like in the river itself.

L'Autre Bord River

We made our way slowly and painstakingly down river, examining all the large rocks as closely as we could, looking for anything out of the ordinary. It’s both a dramatic and scenic little river, and I could almost picture Amerindians bathing, eating, and fishing for mullet and crayfish here.

L'Autre Bord River

After a while however, my imagination began to run riot, and I started to see faces in just about every natural scar and crevice I came across.

Imagining faces

See what I mean ?

Rock scars

And what was this all about ?

What's this ?

No idea. Do you ?

We searched all afternoon and, although there were so many awesome rocks and boulders and you could almost sense a discovery right around the next corner, we eventually arrived at the river mouth empty handed.

River mouth

But we enjoyed a well-deserved picnic by a rather wild and beautiful Atlantic Ocean.

Atlantic Ocean

Sorry. No petroglyphs to report. But we had a nice little adventure.

Indigo

Artist Marie Frederick has let me know she’s happy to welcome visitors without appointments to her very unique Indigo art gallery from now until 23 May. Entry is US$10 pp (fee waived if artwork purchased). Ring the bell and she’ll come let you in.

indigo

Back to planting

Easter weekend gave me a chance to take a break from house-building work and spend a little time in the garden. I haven’t really touched any of it since all the bush-cutting I did last year and so Orange Field has simply become a rather messy building site. Armed with pick, mattock, spade and machete I set to work tidying the banana grove and planting bougainvillea cuttings along the southern boundary. The first task was to tidy up the public trail that runs beside it and clear some of the trees and bush that had encroached from the neighbouring woodland. It was rewarding work as I uncovered wild heliconia, eucharist lilies and amaryllis. A huge bunch of green bananas was ready for picking and I planted out several new suckers in an attempt to migrate the grove a little farther to the west. By the time the church-goers returned from their Sunday service the trail was transformed and they were so delighted there was lots of hand-shaking and invitations to come along and worship with them whenever I want. Ahem ..

The southern boundary is becoming a nursery of sorts until I manage to clear bush and wild grass from other parts of the garden and the building site eventually recedes. So far, in addition to the bougainvillea hedgerow I’m trying to create, I have white ginger lilies, arabica coffee, queen of the night, tree fern, clerodendron and nutmeg all planted here. Some of it will move on later.

I think some thought I was a bit silly doing planting given the long kawem (the dry season) had parched the landscape so much. Funny thing was that it rained properly, all night, for the first time in about two months after I had finished planting – so now I look like some kind of gardening genius :)

There’s a hell of a lot to do in the garden – I think it’s going to take a very long time – but I love to see it developing little by little.

southern-boundary

Ma Bell 4:20

If you’re hiking National trail segment 3 through my village (Giraudel), I recommend dropping in for a cold drink at the lovely Ma Bell’s 4:20 bar on the main road.

New flights

Following American Eagle’s withdrawal from Puerto Rico, Liat Airlines has announced a new non-stop service between Melville Hall Airport and San Juan. The service begins from April 2013. Flight LI 560 will depart Dominica at 10:00 am daily, arriving at San Juan at 11:55 am. Flight LI 565 will leave San Juan at 3:00 pm daily and arrive at Dominica at 4:45 pm.

The top end

I went for a walk from Capuchin to Delaford and back yesterday. Hiking buffs will recognise this as National Trail segment 13 – though the track was here long before, linking villages and estates along the top end. One of the main reasons for going was to see the remnants of Grand Fond, a settlement that existed around a coffee estate in the 19th century. I had seen a photo of the National Trail project team standing by a rather grand sign marking the spot where the estate had been, and assumed some work must have been done to clear and expose the ruins.Grand Fond sign Sadly, and to my great disappointment, the sign, next to a small stone wall, was all there was to see. I had passed through this spot on several occasions before, so I knew about it, but had been eager to see more. Oh well.

But it was a glorious day. Near Delaford the views across the Guadeloupe Channel were stunning. It was so clear that not only could we see The Saints, Guadeloupe and Marie-Galante, we could even make out houses and gardens on them. It whetted my appetite to travel to them and explore.

Marie-Galante

There are plenty of interesting features on this trail – for starters it’s the location of the only petroglyphs discovered on Dominica (it has long been my ambition to seek and discover more of them – and one day I’m convinced I will). There’s the cloudy Taffia River with it’s cascade and waterfall (cloudy because of volcanic clays, named taffia after the French word for fermented cane juice – thanks Lennox!), vertiginous farmlands where people grow ground provisions on what are tantamount to cliff sides, and the strong feeling of remoteness and antiquity that are inherent in this place – as if it’s somehow been frozen in time. And every local person I have ever met here, without exception, has been genuinely friendly, open and and kind. It’s a lovely part of the island and one I aim to explore further.

Taffia River cascade and pool

As for a trail update: it’s the same as the book, no changes. Just be careful in some sections of the trail where it’s narrow, steep and crumbly under foot.

Wood

This morning I went to one of our local merchants to buy some wood. I needed two lengths of 2x8x16 treated pitch pine boards, cut into two halves of eight feet, plus twelve lengths of 1x6x16 tongue and groove treated pitch pine boards, also cut into two halves of eight feet.

I placed my order with the cashier. Everything was in stock. It would cost around EC$700.

“How much to deliver it to Canefield ?” I asked.
“No deliveries,” she replied.
“Oh, why’s that ? I can’t transport all that wood on my roof rack.”
“No drivers.”
“Oh. But it doesn’t have to be today; it can be any time later on this week.”
“No. No drivers,” she repeated. “Go and see Miranda, the supervisor.”
“Oh. Ok then.”

As I walked across to the cement shed where, it was rumoured, I might find Miranda, I thought about how easy life used to be. Drive ten minutes to B&Q, buy what you need, drive home.

I found Miranda and told her what I wanted.

“Are you going to be home today ?” she asked.
“Yes, I can be.”
“Ok, go pay for it. I’ll organise for it to be delivered.”
“Really ? Wow, thank you. What’s the delivery charge ?”
“No charge.”
“Really ? You sure ?” I asked, wanting to give her a hug and a kiss.
“Yes,” she smiled. “Just save me your blessings.”

Ten minutes later I arrived home. Twenty minutes after that a truck arrived with my wood.
Beat that B&Q.