Shooting Nom Fwijè

On March 21, 2010, in Dominica, by paulcrask

The hamlet of Mahaut River, Kalinago Territory. 7.30am. No sign of Israel or Victoria. We scratched around for a while, taking stock shots of bananas, alleyways, roads, dogs, chickens and dirt. The place had an air of abandonment. Fitting, I thought, because so did we.

A teenager emerged from a wooden shack; a sheepish girl shading her eyes from the sunlight crouched semi-naked behind him. He waved a good morning.
‘Hi there. Is Israel about ?’
‘No, he not there, oui.’
‘You know where he is ?’
‘Yes, he at Laudat since yesterday.’
‘Is he coming back ?’
‘Yes.’
‘You know what time ? He was supposed to meet us here at 7.30.’
‘About 8. Or maybe 9. Maybe.’
‘Is Victoria here ?’
‘No she not there, oui.’
‘You know where she is ?’
‘Yes, she gone to catch crabs.’

We were here to make a short film about them. A day in the life. She cooking, he going to the bush to chop down a tree fern and then carve a mask to sell on his roadside stall. It was their life. Time must mean little when things are simplified to an extreme, I ventured. Pierre nodded and looked for more artsy camera angles. We were all just doing our thing.

‘Let’s go find some coffee somewhere,’ I said.
‘What about them ?’
‘They’ll turn up.’
‘You sure ?’
‘Nope,’ I smiled. ‘What happens happens.’
‘I guess.’

I went to look for the teenager who I assumed to be their son. He was out back kicking at the ground. The girl was now properly dressed and seemed to be leaving.

‘Hi. We’re just going to look for some breakfast. If Israel or Victoria come back, please tell them we won’t be long.’
‘Okay.’
‘You think they may be back soon ?’
‘Yes. No. I don’t think so, oui. Maybe this afternoon. Maybe.’

Just as we had finished packing our equipment into the back of the car a bus turned up. Out stepped Israel, grinning from ear to ear. Behind him, just in shot, Victoria was approaching along the road. She was carrying a sack that very obviously contained something that was still alive.

‘Crabs !’ she laughed as she arrived.

We all shook hands and smiled. Only now mattered. Israel picked up his file and machete and wandered over to his bench where he began sharpening. We unloaded the gear.

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