Black sweat

Early morning. Ran out of deodorant. Decide to pick some up on the way to the building site. Only two places likely to be open at this time; the 7-11 or the 24-hour pharmacy. Thinking they may have a better selection, I opt for the pharmacy.

“Good morning. Do you have men’s deodorant ?”
“Just this one here,” she says, pointing to a shelf full of roll-ons.
“What is it ?” I ask.
“Black Sweat,” she replies.
“I’m sorry ?”
“Black Sweat,” she says again.
“Black Sweat ? It’s called Black Sweat ?”
“Yes.”
“How much is it ?”
“Five sixty-five.”

So now I have to decide if I’d like my armpits to smell of white sweat or black sweat. There seems to be no other choice.

“Okay, I’ll take it.”

She takes my money and puts the Black Sweat into a brown paper bag, making it look like something illicit.

I exit the shop, sit in my car and take it out.

Black Suede, reads the label, and I smile.

I lather it on and head up to the building site smelling like a cheap night out.

Petroglyphs

Dominica News Online asked if they could publish my Quest for Petroglyphs blog post on their website. I’ve read some of the comments with interest. It seems to have captured the imagination of most and I’m now even more driven to continue the search. Perhaps I should form a Petroglyph Hunters club ?!

One person mentioned the Layou petroglyphs in St Vincent. Here’s a photo of them from when I was last there.

Layou-Petroglyphs-(2)_PC

And here’s a photo of the Duquesne petroglyph in Grenada

Duquesne-Petroglyphs

It would be awesome to find something like this in Dominica … I’ll keep looking !

Till the soil some more

I like to see murals and I wish there were more of them around. The Cuban Five on Ship St in Roseau is my favourite on this island (though I do like the Indigo bus stop in Borne), but the best I have seen on my travels so far is this one on a wooden building called The Edenic Castle on Carriacou.

When I eventually get around to building a garden shed, I may have to call this guy and ask him to come and paint it for me. Really love it.

Edenic-Castle-(2)

Red Rocks

Dusk at Pointe Baptiste, Dominica

Red Rocks, Pointe Baptiste

Bwa kwaib

Bwa Kwaib (Sabinea carinalis), the national flower of Dominica, in full bloom near the summit of Morne Espagnol today.

bwa kwaib

Top end views

Here are a couple of nice views from the ‘top end’.

This is a view from Lower Pennville down the coast towards Vielle Case. In the near distance, Calibishie and Pointe Baptiste. In the far distance, Morne Trois Pitons.

VC1

This is a view from the road between Pennville and Vielle Case. I just love the mountains and the greenery. Quintessential Dominica.

VC2

The quest for petroglyphs (part 1)

I’ve long held the view, based on absolutely no facts nor evidence whatsoever, that Dominica must have more than just the one tiny little petroglyph that was discovered near the Resposoir Estate on the island’s north coast.

Must have, right ?

If you haven’t the foggiest idea what I’m talking about, sorry. This is an example of an Amerindian petroglyph (Mt Rich in Grenada).

Mt Rich petroglyphs in Grenada

No-one really understands the meaning of these rock carvings, nor what they represent, but most have been found on large boulders near water, usually rivers and river mouths close to the places these people would have had their settlements.

So today was the first day of what I expect to be a very long, drawn-out and potentially fruitless quest to discover something similar here on the nature island. My wife and I headed up to the L’Autre Bord River in the north east corner of Dominica, between Vielle Case and Pennville, where Amerindians are known to have been.

The first time I first came across this pretty babbling brook a couple of years ago when hiking and researching the new National Trail, I was absolutely convinced I’d discover something on one of the huge rocks and boulders between a little area of pasture land and the sea. So today I was very excited to be back here again with more time on my hands and an enthusiastic wife to help me search.

Here’s what the L’Autre Bord River valley looks like from above.

L'Autre Bord River valley

Here’s what it looks like at the bottom.

L'Autre Bord River

And here’s what it looks like in the river itself.

L'Autre Bord River

We made our way slowly and painstakingly down river, examining all the large rocks as closely as we could, looking for anything out of the ordinary. It’s both a dramatic and scenic little river, and I could almost picture Amerindians bathing, eating, and fishing for mullet and crayfish here.

L'Autre Bord River

After a while however, my imagination began to run riot, and I started to see faces in just about every natural scar and crevice I came across.

Imagining faces

See what I mean ?

Rock scars

And what was this all about ?

What's this ?

No idea. Do you ?

We searched all afternoon and, although there were so many awesome rocks and boulders and you could almost sense a discovery right around the next corner, we eventually arrived at the river mouth empty handed.

River mouth

But we enjoyed a well-deserved picnic by a rather wild and beautiful Atlantic Ocean.

Atlantic Ocean

Sorry. No petroglyphs to report. But we had a nice little adventure.